For many travelers, Houay Xai (also spelled Huay Xai) is simply a gateway—a brief stopover after crossing the border from Chiang Khong, Thailand, before catching the famous slow boat to Luang Prabang. However, rushing through this charming riverside capital of Bokeo Province is a mistake.
Nestled along the banks of the Mekong River, Houay Xai offers a blend of colonial history, authentic culture, and adrenaline-pumping adventure that deserves a spot on your Laos itinerary. Whether you have 24 hours or a few days, here is your guide on what to do, places to visit, and the best food to eat in this hidden gem.
Top Things to Do in Houay Xai
1. The Gibbon Experience
Undoubtedly the crown jewel of Bokeo Province, the Gibbon Experience is the primary reason many travelers linger in Houay Xai. This eco-tourism project takes you deep into the Nam Kan National Park, where you zipline hundreds of meters above the jungle canopy and sleep in the world’s highest treehouses. It is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to spot the elusive black-crested gibbon and support local conservation efforts.
2. Sunset at Wat Chom Khao Manilat
For the best view in town, climb the naga-lined staircase to Wat Chom Khao Manilat. This 19th-century Shan-style temple sits on a hill overlooking the town. Visit just before dusk to watch the sun dip behind the mountains of Thailand across the Mekong River—a golden hour spectacle that rivals any in Southeast Asia.
3. Explore Fort Carnot
History buffs should head to Fort Carnot, one of the best-preserved colonial military outposts in Laos. Built by the French around 1900, the fort features crumbling watchtowers and old barracks. While you cannot enter every building due to safety, the grounds are open to explore, offering a hauntingly beautiful glimpse into the region’s colonial past and excellent panoramic views of Houay Xai.
4. Wander the Morning Market (Talat Sao)
To see the real pulse of the town, wake up early and visit the Morning Market. Unlike tourist-centric markets in larger cities, this is where locals shop. You will find ethnic minority hill tribes selling fresh produce, jungle herbs, and exotic meats. It is a sensory overload and a fantastic place for photographers to capture daily life in Houay Xai.
Must-Try Food in Houay Xai
Laotian cuisine is distinct, spicy, and herb-heavy. When in Houay Xai, you are in the perfect spot to try Northern Lao specialties.
- Sin Dad (Lao BBQ): This is a fun, communal dining experience popular in Houay Xai. You cook your own marinated meats on a domed metal skillet in the center of the table while boiling vegetables and noodles in the broth around the rim. It is best enjoyed with a cold Beerlao by the river.
- Mekong River Fish: Being a riverside town, fresh fish is a staple. Try it steamed in banana leaves (Mok Pa) or grilled with salt and lemongrass.
- Khao Soi: Different from the creamy curry noodle soup found in Northern Thailand, the Lao version in Houay Xai is a clear rice noodle soup topped with a savory ragu of minced pork, fermented soy beans, and fresh herbs.
- Kaipen (River Weed): A local snack made from river weed harvested from the Mekong, pressed into sheets with garlic and sesame seeds, and flash-fried. It’s the perfect crispy appetizer.
Where to Eat
- Daauw Home: A popular spot run by a local family that supports the Kajsiab Project, helping women and children from mountain villages. They serve excellent pizza and local Lao dishes with a stunning terrace view.
- Riverside Restaurants: Walk along the riverfront road; you will find several open-air restaurants where you can enjoy Sin Dad while watching the slow boats drift by.
Practical Tips for Visiting
- The Slow Boat: If Houay Xai is your starting point for the slow boat to Luang Prabang, buy your tickets directly at the pier or your guesthouse to avoid scams. Stock up on sandwiches (baguettes) in town before you board, as food on the boat can be pricey.
- Currency: While Thai Baht is widely accepted, using Lao Kip is appreciated by smaller vendors and often gets you a better rate.
Houay Xai is a destination that rewards the curious. By spending a little extra time here, you’ll discover a relaxed, authentic side of Laos that sets the perfect tone for your adventures ahead.
